Whales have been on my wish list for about as long as I can remember. Wildlife is a huge part of why I travel, but I’ve never actually been on a proper whale watching trip somewhere famous for it, so I’ve spent a lot of time reading up on where to go, when to go and how to pick a good operator, and this is everything I’ve found out.
The biggest thing I’ve learnt is that timing matters more than anything, as most whales migrate and the same bay can be full of humpbacks one month and empty the next.
When is whale watching season?
There isn’t one single whale watching season, as it depends completely on where you are and which whales you want to see. In the northern hemisphere, summer is generally best in places like Iceland, Scotland and Alaska, when the whales come north to feed. In the southern hemisphere, humpbacks and southern right whales head to warmer, sheltered water to breed and give birth during the southern winter, which is why Australia and South Africa are at their best roughly June to November.
A few places have whales all year round, so it’s worth picking the species first and then the destination. The months below are approximate and shift a little from year to year, so always check with local operators before you book.
The best places for whale watching in the world
Húsavík, Iceland
Húsavík, on Skjálfandi Bay in north Iceland, is often called the whale watching capital of Europe. Humpbacks and minke whales are seen regularly from spring to autumn, most reliably roughly May to September, and blue whales turn up now and again in spring and early summer.
When I drove Iceland’s Ring Road it was November, the wrong time for whales but a fantastic time for the aurora, so if you’re torn between the two, read my guide on how to see the northern lights before choosing your month.
Tromsø and Andenes, Norway
Northern Norway has two very different seasons. In winter, roughly November to January, orcas and humpbacks follow the herring in towards the coast, and trips run from Tromsø, although recently the whales have mostly gathered further north around Skjervøy, so check where the boats are heading. Orcas in that soft blue polar night light is right near the top of my list.
In summer, head to Andenes in Vesterålen for sperm whales, which hunt squid in a deep canyon very close to the coast, so the trip out is short. The main season runs roughly May to September.
The Azores, Portugal
The Azores sit out in the middle of the Atlantic and are one of the best places in Europe for whales. Sperm whales live here all year, and in spring, roughly April and May, blue, fin and sei whales pass through on their way north. Lookouts on the cliffs, called vigias and left over from the whaling days, still spot the whales and radio the boats.
Hervey Bay, Australia
Hervey Bay in Queensland is one of the best places in the world for humpbacks, as they rest in the calm, sheltered bay on their way back south, many with young calves. The season runs roughly July to October, and the whales here have a reputation for being curious. It was also recognised as one of the world’s first Whale Heritage Sites.
Kaikōura, New Zealand
Kaikōura, on the east coast of the South Island, has sperm whales all year round thanks to a deep canyon just offshore, and you’ll often see dusky dolphins, fur seals and albatross on the same trip. If you’re worried about the sea, whale watching flights are a good alternative.
Baja California, Mexico
Grey whales travel down from the Arctic to give birth in the lagoons of Baja California, such as San Ignacio, Ojo de Liebre and Magdalena Bay, roughly January to March, and mothers sometimes bring their calves right up to the small boats. Access is regulated, so book with a licensed local operator.
Mirissa, Sri Lanka
Mirissa, on Sri Lanka’s south coast, is one of the most accessible places in the world to see blue whales, roughly December to April. It has had problems with too many boats crowding and chasing the whales, so be really picky about who you go with.
Monterey Bay and Alaska, USA
Monterey Bay in California has something for most of the year, with grey whales migrating past in winter and spring, humpbacks roughly spring to autumn and blue whales mostly in summer. Further north, Alaska’s Inside Passage around Juneau is fantastic for humpbacks roughly May to September.
Hermanus, South Africa
Hermanus, a couple of hours from Cape Town, is one of the best places in the world to see whales from land. Southern right whales come into Walker Bay roughly June to November, peaking around September and October, and a cliff path with viewpoints runs along the coast, so it’s ideal if you don’t get on with boats.
Where can you go whale watching in the UK?
Whale watching in the UK can be surprisingly good. Minke whales are the most common, along with dolphins, porpoises and seals, and humpbacks and orcas turn up more often than most people realise.
The Hebrides and Mull
The west coast of Scotland is the best place in the UK for whales. Minke whales are seen roughly June to September, with basking sharks in early summer and the odd orca, and boats run from places like Tobermory on Mull. I drove the NC500 in April, which was too early for the minkes, and it really made me want to go back in summer.
Cornwall
Cornwall has common dolphins and grey seals for much of the year, minke whales in summer and, in recent winters, humpbacks turning up off the south coast. Boat trips run from harbours like Penzance, Falmouth and Padstow, and the headlands of West Penwith are good for watching from land on a calm day.
The Moray Firth
The Moray Firth, just outside Inverness, is famous for its bottlenose dolphins rather than whales. Chanonry Point on the Black Isle is the classic spot, and the dolphins often come close to shore on a rising tide, with the best chances in summer. If you’re up there between May and July you can easily combine it with a puffin trip too, and my guide on where to see puffins in the UK has the best places.
How to choose an ethical whale watching tour
A good operator makes a massive difference, both to the whales and to your trip, so here’s what I’d look for.
- Codes of conduct. Most countries have a whale watching code covering speed, distance and time with the whales, and the International Whaling Commission’s online whale watching handbook lists the rules for each country.
- No chasing. Boats should slow right down, approach from the side or behind, never cut in front of or box in the whales, and let the whales decide how close they come.
- Accreditation. In the UK, look for operators trained under the WiSe scheme, and elsewhere look out for Whale Heritage Sites.
- Small groups. A small boat with a naturalist on board is usually far better than a packed one, and avoid places where lots of boats crowd one whale.
- Honest about sightings. Be wary of anyone promising guaranteed close encounters, as that pressure leads to chasing.
- Leave the drone in the bag. Many countries have strict rules on flying drones near whales.
My guide to ethical wildlife photography goes into this in more detail, and it applies just as much at sea as it does on land.
How to avoid seasickness on a whale watching trip
Whales often feed in deep, open water, so even on a calm day there can be a swell. If you’re prone to seasickness, a bit of preparation goes a long way.
- Choose a bigger, more stable boat or a catamaran if you have the choice
- Take seasickness tablets before you set off rather than once you feel ill, and ask a pharmacist which ones suit you
- Stay out on deck in the fresh air and keep your eyes on the horizon
- Sit low down and near the middle of the boat, where there’s less movement
- Eat something light beforehand, and go easy on the drinks the night before
- Check the forecast and pick the calmest day if your plans are flexible
Tips for photographing whales
Whales are tricky to photograph, as you’re on a moving boat and you only get a few seconds each time they surface. A shutter speed of around 1/1000 or faster freezes the movement of both the boat and the whale, and continuous autofocus with burst mode gives you the best chance of catching the moment.
A mid-range zoom is usually plenty, and on a phone stick to the telephoto lens rather than zooming in digitally. Keep your horizon level and watch for diving birds, as they often give away where the whales are feeding.
And every now and then put the camera down and just watch, as you’ll remember the sound of the blow and the smell of the sea far more than any single photo.
What to wear and bring whale watching
It’s always colder on the water than in the harbour, so dress in layers with a proper waterproof on top. Bring a hat and gloves, sun cream, binoculars, water and a dry bag or rain cover for your camera and phone. In Norway in winter most operators provide thermal suits, but check first.
If you’re looking for more wildlife ideas, my guide to the best places to see wildlife covers some of my favourite spots around the world.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to go whale watching?
It depends on where you go. In the northern hemisphere, including Iceland, Scotland and Alaska, summer is usually best, roughly May to September. In Australia and South Africa the season runs roughly June to November. Norway has a winter orca and humpback season, and some places like Kaikōura and the Azores have sperm whales all year round.
Where is the best place in the world to see whales?
There’s no single best place, but some of the most reliable are Húsavík in Iceland, the Azores, Hervey Bay in Australia, Kaikōura in New Zealand, the lagoons of Baja California in Mexico, Monterey Bay in California and Hermanus in South Africa. The right choice depends on which species you want to see and when you can travel.
Can you see whales in the UK?
Yes. Minke whales are the most common, especially off the west coast of Scotland around Mull and the Hebrides, roughly June to September. Cornwall has dolphins for much of the year and has seen humpbacks in recent winters, and the Moray Firth near Inverness is one of the best places in the UK to see bottlenose dolphins.
Is whale watching ethical?
It can be, if you choose the right operator. Look for companies that follow the local whale watching code, never chase or crowd the whales, keep speeds low and limit their time with each animal. In the UK, WiSe accredited operators are a good sign. Avoid anyone promising guaranteed close encounters, and never fly a drone near whales without permission.
What time of day is best for whale watching?
Whales feed throughout the day, so there’s rarely a single best time for seeing them. The sea is often calmer in the morning, which makes it easier to spot blows and more comfortable if you get seasick. For photography, the softer light of morning and late afternoon is kinder than harsh midday sun on the water.